| Year and Month |
16 Apr, 2014 |
| Number of Days |
1 |
| Crew |
Athula and Me |
| Accommodation |
New Ranketha Rest, Polonnaruwa |
| Transport |
By Car and on foot. |
| Activities |
Archaeology, Photography, etc… |
| Weather |
Excellent except for a shower between 3pm and 4pm. Nevertheless it was extremely hot with temperatures as high as 39 degrees. |
| Route |
Pitakotte->Rajagiriya->Dematagoda->Katunayake (via E3)->Awariwatte->Minuwangoda->Kurunegala (No. 5 Bus Route)->Dambulla->Habarana->Polonnaruwa. |
| Tips, Notes and Special remark |
- Check on the weather before travelling.
- Ranketha Hotel is a good place a little away from the town center with comfortable rooms with AC and hot water. You can contact them on 027-4929078/86, 0766-188199 or 0712-609691 (Mr. Thomas).
- It’s essential to do a pre-plan before the journey jotting down the list of things for you to see. For those who can’t bother or don’t have the time, check out this link on Amazing Lanka.
- Unlike A’Pura, nearly all the Archeological Attractions are located within a dedicated area where it’s easy to travel and visit.
- The Archeology Site is open from 7am to the public.
- If you travel on foot, entrance is free of charge and by a vehicle, it’ll be Rs. 50/- for the vehicle. (I find this is too lenient and cheap. These kinda things shouldn’t be shown to the public, except the school kids, for free or such a low rate.)
- Check the instructions given and displayed next to the archaeological remains before entering or picturing them.
- You have to remove shoes and hats to enter most of the places. So be mindful about it coz most of the people enter them without knowing.
- Please, please don’t try to touch the Stone Pillars, Walls or anything coz they’re wasted away at a faster rate as a result of this. Enjoy them and take pics but keep your distance from them.
- It’s prohibited to use Flash when taking pics inside the Thivanka Image House as it damages the already peeling away painitings.
- Don’t leave anything behind such as plastic bottles, biscuit & toffee wrappers, skins of fruits, etc. around the place as they attract so many monkeys which destroy the archaeological sites and may even harm the visitors.
- Carry plenty of water and Vitamin C supplements.
- Be careful if and when bathing in canals and tanks. Always follow the signs and check with the villagers before jumping in.
- Don’t at any time feed the monkeys or any animal in or out of the area. Follow the same rule wherever you go. Those wild animals know and have to find their own meals from the forests not be fed by us.
- This is intended purely as a guide to the Archaeological Attractions in Polonnaruwa. I hope our children will benefit from this.
- Protect the Nature and don’t litter.
- There’s some charity work should anyone is interested. Most of the information boards are peeling off and almost invisible. If someone can sponsor to redo them, it’d be greatly beneficial for the public.
- A detailed map of the Archaeological Site will be really useful. There are vendors who sell books which have the map in details.
- A very big thank-you to the people including the archeology officials for keeping this site remarkably well and for all the restoration work. May you have the resources and funds to keep up your good work.
|
| Author |
Sri Abeywickrema |
| Comments |
Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
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Sri Lanka, a country that has seen everything for more than 3000 years, boasts plenty of things worth seeing in this tiny space of 65,000+ sq. km of land. We have practically everything a nature loving person is craving for, from mountains to rivers to waterfalls to forests to farmlands to ancient ruins and so much more scattered all around. There’s not a square foot of land or even the sea which can be ignored. That’s what we at Lakdasun are attempting to do, to show you the value of our country and where you can go see the magic of the Mother Nature unfolding before your eyes. Not only that, we also try to show you the Marvels of the Ancient History created by our own ancestors when the rest of the civilizations across the globe were nothing but barren landscapes.
Moving on to the story, I guess I’ve got to go see some of those creations by our ancestors as most of the time it’s the wonders of Mother Nature I have been visiting. When it comes to ancient creations or ruins as many of us call them, we are unbeatable. No other country in the whole world can claim they have more things to show for than we have. We’ve many things found all around the country built many years ago that even the archaeology department finds it difficult to cope with. Unfortunately for us, they are heavily understaffed and underfunded making it extremely hard for them to keep an eye out for the excavated ruins and maintain them. This further hampers their efforts to dig other unexplored areas to unearth many more things built by our ancestors.
After the Portuguese invasion in 1505, followed by Dutch and the English till 1948; for over four centuries, most of our treasures were stolen by them and taken to their countries. Even to date, they are shamelessly being displayed in their museums and our government is helpless to try and retrieve them. The proud nature, creativity and all the other skills of our countrymen have since been shot to pieces. Our culture was slowly blended with the useless foreign ways making it a hybrid one which is far from healthy. We were divided according to our races, religions and anything imaginable so that they could control us easily. We’re suffering now as a result of those wicked actions. Unfortunately, the politicians paid little attention to these things after the independence making the problems increase dramatically.
Well, I guess I’ve unburdened myself somewhat and before this turns into a socio-political-economic article, I’ll divert to the story at hand. Many people have selected areas where they like to explore. Some want to go see Waterfalls, others only interested in Hiking, and a few rare types are keen on seeing the ancient things. If you ask me, I’d say I’m cosmopolitan when it comes to traveling. I’ve no selected places or things that I love to see. True, I’m very much passionate about waterfalls, yet when it comes to traveling, I can live with practically anything from mountains to waterfalls to caves to archeology to etc.
So after a year of mainly visiting waterfalls (I’ve got 17 Tour de Waterfalls), as the rains eased I decided to change focus and do something else. It’s been a long time since I wanted to go visit Polonnaruwa but kept getting postponed due to this or that. Finally, after a long vacation at Rozella I put in my suggestion to Atha about a quick 2-day trip to Polonnaruwa. As he too was on holiday and had nothing better to do than visiting relations, we agreed on 16-17 April. The sun was ferocious making it a punishment to stay at home during the day. The temperatures were nearly always in mid-thirties so the thought of going to the dry zone in Polonnaruwa was unfathomable. However, we were not gonna be shied away from that. So finally we decided to go enjoy this beauty to the fullest and bring you a detailed report on her treasures unearthed so far.
Unlike other archeological cities, it’s so much easier to see things in Polonnaruwa as they are located in a small area within walking distance; that is if you don’t mind walking about 4-6km from this to the other. There are around 40-50 significant places you can visit within the whole premises. It’s well signposted and maintained by the archeological officials. The road inside are good and can be driven very easily. They even have dedicated car parks where you can leave them and go see the ruins. This Ancient City of Polonnaruwa is declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO.
However, on a personal note, I think allowing the vehicles to enter the premises should be prohibited coz the noise of them and the toxic and chemicals released by them could be harmful to the historical relics. Instead, we could use electric golf cart like vehicles or foot cycles. It’ll be more environmentally friendly if we adopted such things.
So we booked the Ranketha Hotel over the phone (thanks to Niroshan) and left around 4.30am for Polonnaruwa. The drive was largely uninterrupted and we drove along the Katunayake Highway then followed the road to Kurunegala, Dambulla and Habarana. Most of the shops were closed due to New Year so we had trouble finding a place for breakfast. Finally passing Digampathaha we found a place by the road. They were making hot hot Roti with even hotter Lunu Miris and tasty Dhal Curry. We ate a few with some rice before continuing our journey. Sigiriya and Pidurangala rocks were rising to the sky to our right beyond the Digampathaha Sanctuary. I got a sudden urge to once again climb that majestic rock.
Tour Highlights:
- Minneriya Reservoir.
- Giritale Tank.
- Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.
We drove past the Minneriya National Park and stopped to take a few picture of the reservoir which was full due to the intermittent rains. Here are some pictures for you to see.
We continued along the A11 towards Polonnaruwa but met another beautiful and breath-taking tank once again among the thousands of them in North Central. This time it was Giritale Tank which is believed to have been built by King Agbo II sometime in the 7th century. It was a sight worth seeing and taking pictures so without so much as a second thought we stopped to find a typical watery bird (Kirala in Sinhala) looking for something to eat walking along the road. Here you go, check them out and see would you too have stopped?
Having mesmerized, we went straight to the hotel and leaving our baggage, returned straight to the archeological site. This is when I got another shock. Entering into the archaeological site is free for the locals where as they only have to pay Rs. 50/- per vehicle. This is something I believe should be changed. I don’t think any of this should be shown for free even for the locals. They must charge something from them and can give an exemption for the school kids in uniform.
Whatever you see or get for free has no value at all. This only allows people who have really purpose or means to just go and stray about making at times a nuisance to the genuine travelers. I hope they’ll take this into consideration in future. Before we go into the details, I’ll just show you one of the monkeys posing. In fact the archeological site is plagued with them. They’ve been in there since the human occupation and continue to thrive on.
Ok, let’s get down to business coz I’ve got so many pictures to show you on the first day. We first drove towards the Inner Citadel. Mr. Thomas at the Ranketha Hotel said it’d only take 3 hours to see everything there is to see. If only he knew that Atha and I walked for more than 15 hours in the unforgiving sun with nothing but a bottle of water. Well, he’s right in a way coz if you just drive through or ride a bicycle, it can be covered in 3 hours but not the way I planned and did it. Even after the 15 hours, we had covered maybe a little over three quarters of the documented sites. Let’s first check what we saw on the first day.
Things we saw inside the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa
Inside the Citadel:
- Stone Scripture at the North Entrance to the Citadel.
- King Parakramabahu Council Chamber.
- Kumara Pokuna.
- King Parakramabahu’s Royal Palace.
- King Vijayabahu’s Palace.
Off Parakrama Samudraya:
- Statue of Sage Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila.
- Pothgul Viharaya.
- Parakrama Samudraya.
Outer Citadel:
- Shiva Devalaya No. 1.
Dalada Maluwa:
- Thuparama.
- Nissanka Latha Mandapaya.
- Bodhisattva Statue.
- Wester Gate House of Dalada Maluwa.
- Velikkara Tamil Inscription.
- Atadage.
- Hatadage.
- Watadage.
- Galpotha (Stone Inscription).
- Sathmahal Prasada.
- Pohoya Geya aka Chapter House.
- Eastern Gate House of Dalada Maluwa.
Outer Citadel:
- Shiva Devalaya No. 2.
- Unnamed Ruins.
- Pabalu Vehera.
On the way to the Hotel:
- Sunset at Parakrama Samudraya.
An impressive list this is, isn’t it? Wait till you get the Chapter 2 and see the complete set of things we saw within two days. However, we all know our ancestors built these things and left them for us to see. If it wasn’t for our archeologists and the department, these things wouldn’t have been protected like this for us to go see. Most of the buildings had been either burnt or destroyed by the stinking South Indian invaders and then left to be overgrown by the trees.
The archeology department later on had excavated them and restored to the former glory as best as they can. If you buy one of those books being sold at the premises, you can see the state of all those historical relics before restoration. Even today, they go to great pains to keep them protected. So you’re kindly requested to help them do it and do your bit so that these things will be there for the generations to come.
Let me introduce the rulers of Polonnaruwa coz it’s important to try and know them before we go into details. They are the ones who built and destroyed this great city.
Rulers of Polonnaruwa including the South Indian invaders: Kingdom of Polonnaruwa (1056-1212)
“Chola” Invaders – South Indian Invaders – 1017-1070
King Vijayabahu I – 1056-1111
King Jayabahu I – Brother & Chief Minister of Vijayabahu I – 1110-1111
King Wickramabahu I – Son of Vijayabahu I – 1111-1132
King Gajabahu II – Son of Wickramabahu I – 1132-1153
King Parakramabahu I – Parakramabahu the Great – 1153-1186
- The father of Parakramabahu, Manabharana was the son of Mitta, who was the sister of Vijayabahu I. The mother of Parakramabahu was Rathnavalee who was a daughter of Vijayabahu I. He’s the grandson of Vijayabahu I.
King Vijayabahu II – Son of Parakramabahu’s sister – 1186-1187
King Mahinda VI – Arrived from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1187
- He reigned as the king only for 5 days.
King Nissanka Malla – Son-in-law of Parakramabahu I – 1187-1196
- King Nissanka Malla is accused of claiming other kings’ work as his and boasting about them by leaving many stone inscriptions all around.
King Weerabahu I – Son of Nissanka Malla – 1196
King Wickramabahu II – Younger brother of Nissanka Malla – 1196
King Chodaganga – A nephew of Nissanka Malla – 1196-1197
Queen Leelawathie – Wife (Widow) of Parakramabahu I – 1197-1200
King Sahasa Malla – A brother of Nissanka Malla – 1200-1202
Queen Kalyanawathie – Second wife of Nissanka Malla – 1202-1208
King Dharmasoka – Was made king at the age of 3 months – 1208-1209
- He was made king by the General Ayasmantha after disposing Queen Kalyanawathie. He was later succeeded by his father Anikanga.
King Anikanga – Father of Dharmasoka – 1209
Queen Leelawathie – Second time – 1209-1210
Lokeshwara – Invader from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1210-1211
Queen Leelawathie – Third time – 1211-1212
Parakrama Pandya – Invader from Pandya Kingdom, India – 1212-1215
Kalinga Magha – Invader from Kalinga Kingdom, India – 1215-1236
If you’ve got familiar, we can go on. It’s very interesting to know how the name came about to this city. The ancient name is Pulathisirpura or Pulathisinuwara which is derived after the Sage Guardian Pulasthi. The name Polonnaruwa is believed to be a combination of “Pulun” (Cotton Wool) and “Maruwa” (Exchange). Now let’s go see what this glamorous city has to offer.
Inside the Citadel
We drove on and parked our vehicle among many others. To my surprise there were so many tourists both local and foreign. Vendors were busy trying to attract their attention away from the relics. Guides kept talking louder giving all the information about the things and the history trying to outsmart the fellow rivals. It was so hot and people paid little attention to what the guides had to say. Instead they were concentrating on keeping out of the scorching heat. Some people kept punching on their mobiles and tabs checking their Facebook accounts not giving a toss about the things in front of them.
We parked our vehicle and walked back to the entrance to the citadel to begin our thorough and systematic exploration of the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa. So let’s get started.
Stone Scripture @ the North Entance
As soon as you enter the citadel (turning to your right); you’ll see this at the entrance to the left of it. None of the tourists bothered to stop here or check what this was. They all wanted to go see the Gal Viharaya, nothing else. Let’s see what it says before going and see what it really looks like:
“Polonnarua Slab Inscription at the North Entrance to the Citadel.
Reign: Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD)
Period: 12th Century AD
Script: Medieval Sinhala
Language: Sanskrit & Medieval Sinhala
Contents:
Inscription includes a description of virtues of King Nissanka Malla and mentions that the members of the Kalinga Royal Dynasty who protected its subjects with good governance were the most suitable to be kings. It also mentions persons from the Kalinga Royalty should be the kings of Sri Lanka and those of Govi Caste and non-Buddhist princes from Cola or Kerala are not fit to claim legacy to the throne. The people who show allegiance to those who have no right to Royalty will be treated as traitors.”
King Parakramabahu Council Chamber
We then walked inside and arrived at the King Parakramabahu Audience Hall. This really is an impeccably created structure now restored by the archeology department. The steps up to the hall are supported by the typical Korawakkgala with a beautiful Moonstone at the base. Remaining pillars boast the carvings of the ancient artists with beautiful stone carvings such as Lotus and many others. There is a square-shaped pit in front of the chamber which is where the prisoners were kept until they were called in.
“Contents:
An inscription found on stone slab at the upper level of the flight of steps of the building identifies the building as Raja Vaishyabhujanga Mandapa, the council chamber of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 A.D.). It has three consecutive tiers faced with decorated stone slabs. The roof supported on stone pillars of the upper most tier probably had wooden members and covered with clay tiles. The investigations have revealed that the present form of the building may have been a result of a renovation, probably during the Dambadeniya Period (13th century A.D.).”
Kumara Pokuna
We then walked on towards the Kumara Pokuna (Prince’s Pond). It was so difficult to take a clear picture of anything as the sea of people kept swaying from one end to the other. I had to stand in the hot sun for ages until they clear for a fraction of a second to take a single picture. By the end of the day, I’d been so sunburnt I scarcely recognized myself. Kumara Pokuna was no exception. There were many people bustling about.
However most of the people had no idea what this was (we heard many refer to this as “Kuttam Pokuna”). All they wanted to do was see whatever is there and get out of the sun and go take a dip in a channel. All we had to do was be patient and wait till they go. Most of the time there was a wave after wave of people coming making us sweat it out. Close by was a changing room and a washing place as well. The sluice gate is now almost blocked by the earth where they removed water.
“Contents:
This royal bath now known as the Kumara Pokuna, must be the pond named Sila Pokkharani referred to in the Mahavamsa as built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). This area lying outside the citadel may have belonged to King Parakramabahu’s royal parked named Nandana Uyana. The pond elegantly built with a cruciformed ground plan is designed in such manner as to get water from the adjacent watercourse and is also provided with outlets to drain off the used water. The pavilion near the pond must have been served as a changing room.”
King Parakramabahu’s Royal Palace
We were already sweating like pigs but there was so much more to see. Climbing back up to the main complex we walked towards the Royal Palace of Parakramabahu the Great. This is believed to have built into 7 stories but today we can only see up to the 3rd story. There are huge square-shaped holes in the walls to prove that there were wooden beams supporting the floors.
In one of the groups, one grandmother said to her grandson when he was walking past towards the foundations of the buildings that there was nothing to see. “Ohe mukuth balanna ne”. My dear grandma, what would you have expected to see? King Parakramabahu galloping away on his royal horse? What you could have instead said was “Balanna issara rajawaru karala thiyena dewal”. See what our ancient kings have done and built. I guess it was the same with many parents and adults. They have very little interest in the archeological remains so invariably the kids will take after them.
So I’m requesting all the parents and adults those who take their kids to places like these to be more thorough. Do take a genuine interest yourself then only you can convey a positive message to your kids. Please make sure you teach them the correct thing. Read the sign postings placed next to each and every place. There were many people coming and asking me what that particular place was when the description is clearly given next to the site.
So if you visit this place, do it in a fruitful manner and don’t rush through them like in a 100m-relay. Take time to appreciate our ancestors’ work, imagine yourself when those buildings were occupied and along those paths, horses galloped making that signature tuck-tuck noise. Flame lit pathways with watchers walking along the city wall. Go back to those times and enjoy it. Live it in your thoughts and make them into words, tell your children how glamorous their lives must have been. Then only our future generations will understand the real value of these things and protect them with their lives.
This palace apparently was seven storied (must’ve been the tallest building in the whole world by then) with thousand rooms. Would you believe that now? One thousand rooms? Just imagine the sheer size of the whole building. Oh my goodness, I simply can’t imagine how glamorous this must’ve been in the past. Simply unbelievable but knowing King Parakramabahu, anything was possible at the time. Shouldn’t this be named as one of the wonders of the world? I certainly think so but a pity there’s so little remains at the present.
“Contents:
This edifice is said to be the palace of King Parakramabahu the Great and called as Vijayantha Prasada” of Sathbumupaya. This elaborated and decorated palace was a seven storied building with thousand rooms.”
“Contents:
This is the seven storied palace named Vaijayanthi or Vijayanthi Prasada built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) in Polonnaruwa. The name is that of the Palace of God Sakra and its adoption here indicates that there may have been a need at the time to secure the concept that the King and the God were equal. The basic ground plan of the palace is similar to the 12th century Vijayabahu Palce at Anuradhapura and the palaces at Panduwasnuwara and Yapahuwa. Remains of the three stories of the supposed seven stories can still be identified. Crevices and the sockets on the thick brick walls were to take in large wooden beams. There is evidence that this palace may have been destroyed by fire. Mahavamsa mentions that this had thousand chambers. Around the palace, ruins of many buildings are seen which may have been used as places for rituals and entertainment, and as rooms for palace aides and storage.”
King Vijayabahu Palace & Surrounding Buildings
Our next stop was the King Vijayabahu’s Palace located sandwiched between King Parakramabahu’s Council Chamber and the Palace. There was only the foundation was visible with surrounding remains of other buildings. Unfortunately, there was no signage giving details like others Here enjoy them too.
Gosh, I have a thirst that would slay a camel. Already one 1.5 liter water bottle is gone and we had one more in the car being boiled in the heat. It’s gone past 12 noon. Our cameras were flashing warning signals of draining battery. We’ve been on the trot for nearly 2 hours but far from covering even a quarter. We decided to go see the Pothgul Viharaya and the majestic statue near the Parakrama Samudra, one of the most controversial statues in Sri Lanka.
We realized we hadn’t had anything after breakfast but I had fortunately bought two packets of biscuits. We simply couldn’t waste any time going and having lunch at a hotel. There was yet so much more to see so decided to skip lunch and head straight to Pothgul Viharaya. There are three more items in my list there. This is also one of the few things which are located out of the main complex. It’s about 6km from the archeology site and the last 2km along the Parakrama Samudraya’s dam giving us a sensational view of it.
We decided to do just that and see what the afternoon and evening bring. There was a hint of rain in the afternoon and we got to know it’d been raining steadily in the evenings. Without wasting any more time, folks, why don’t you too hop in and let’s go rock-n-roll rather get roasted in the sun.
Statue of Sage Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila
We arrived at the Pothgul Vihara Complex. Ice Cream vendors were selling their products without stopping to take a breath due to the heat. The demand was so great that they simply kept on selling one after the other. Our first attraction was the Pothgul Vihara Statue which is believed to be of King Parakramabahu but many archeological scholars believe this to be one of the sages in the past, Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila. Well, nothing is confirmed as yet so your guess is as good as mine. There’s also a mound of earth which is believed to have been a Stupa closer to the statue.
Let’s go see what makes this a grandeur creation. Fortunately, now the statue has got a roof sheltering it from the sun and rain. I saw they’re in the process of doing the same at Aukana. However, little did I know whether if it’s a good thing coz if a shelter was required, I’m sure those who built it must have thought it over and added at the same time. Who knows if these statues really need the sun and the rain? Well, I’m no expert in this field but this is just a passing thought that occurred to my wandering mind. I hope the archeology department has taken them as well into their consideration.
“Contents:
This statue at Pothgul Vihara is regarded as a superb example of Asian Art. Traditionally, it is believed to be that of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). But some scholars believe that it represents a sage and that it could be Pulasthi, Agastya or Kapila. A special feature is the object in the hands of the statue, which many believed to be a palm leaf manuscript and that represents the erudition of the holder. Another view has also been expressed that it is a yoke representing sovereignty.”
Pothgul Vihara Complex
We then went towards the Pothgul Vihara Complex which is believed to be the oldest library in Sri Lanka. Of course, I saw remains of a library in Ritigala too and it could be the oldest but I guess it is just a guess that must be why this Pothugul Vihara, as the name suggests, could be the oldest. There were many people walking around but not many seemed to go towards the complex itself. They were quite content to come see the statue and then go off. This suited us really well as it gave an easy photo taking opportunity.
Let’s go folks coz I feel my blood is being boiled inside and I might at any time faint. We’ve finished both our 1.5-litre water bottles and now must go get a 5-litre can to pass the rest of the journey. My skin has turned into leather after hours of being burnt with no sun cream. So be prepared if you come my friends.
“Contents:
Among the ruins of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, Pothgul Vihara Monastic Complex is furthest to the south. Although it is popularly known as Pothgul Vihara, whether it is the ancient name of the complex is doubted. Some scholars believe this could be either Kapila Vihara or Mandala Mandira built by the King Parakrambahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). As its name suggests, this could be the oldest library complex ever found in the island. The peculiar feature of this site is the circular brick building located in the square central terrace. Evidence suggests that the roof itself had been made of bricks and the inner walls contained paintings. On the four sides of this building, four circular mounds are seen which may be the associate stupas, and on the lower terrace are seen square or rectangular residential cells. Shrines of similar designs are seen in South East Asian countries and this particular site seems very much closer to the Minbien Shrine of Cambodia.”
Parakrama Samudraya
Our car was like an oven. Heat was such had we left some row flow mixed with yeast and water, it’d’ve been turned into crispy bread within minutes. Most of the travelers were resting under the shades of the trees sucking and licking ice cream. We made a decision not to pursue any more for the time being. Instead, go to the hotel, have a wash and chill out in the AC for a while and then go back to the outer Citadel in the late afternoon.
It appealed to both of us and there was no one else to argue the point, even the car felt happy about it so we drove on along the Parakrama Samudraya Bund. This is another of our attractions so we had to stop to take the pictures of the beauty.
On a different note, there has been some big controversy over a luxury hotel in the area not allowing the full capacity to be filled as it floods their hotel. Whether it is true or not is still not known for certain. Newspapers and media have been having a field day over this. I guess it’s the duty of the responsible people to look into this manner and reveal the truth.
“Contents:
Parakrama Samudra or Sea of Parakram is a combination of three main separate reservoirs or tanks connected with channels. They are Topa, Eramudu and Dumbutulu Tanks which have been linked to create this massive body of water making the lifeline of people in Polonnaruwa. In addition to them, Kalahagala and Bhu Tanks are also a part of the main reservoir. There are separate dams built for those reservoirs as well in order to reduce the pressure on the main dam. All around the reservoir, there are many other small tanks serving two main purposes. Taking the excess water and topping up the primary tanks.
During reconstruction of the Parakrama Samudraya, the water which was supposed to come to the Thopa Wewa has started flowing to the Bhu Wewa. Then the engineers constructed a temporary dam to block the water flowing to the Bhu Wewa. This temporary dam then became a permanent road and resulted in isolating Kalahagala Wewa and Bhu Wewa from Parakrama Samudraya. This new reconstruction has apparently ignored most of the ancient technology thus reduced the capacity of the main reservoir.
The dam of Parakrama Samudray is 12.38km in length and 9.45m in height. The capacity is 134.07 M.C.M and the area at F.S.L is 2539.50 hectares. At the end of the dam and further along the canal which feeds the Parakrama Samudraya is “Angammedilla”. This is where the Amban Ganga is diverted towards the reservoir. Towards the evening, this is a popular roaming ground for the jumbos.”
We arrived at the hotel around 1.45pm and had a long wash before turning the AC full on. It had to do over time to cool the room to a reasonable temperature. Surprisingly despite not having anything since breakfast, we didn’t feel hungry. The bed was nice and comfortable with a soft enough pillow. I set the alarm to 3pm coz I knew we were not gonna get up once comfortably in bed. I guess you too must be tired and feeling the heat. Take a break and have a cup of coffee before coming to the evening fiesta. Remember, we’ve seen only a fraction of the things in the Ancient Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.
Evening Fiesta
The alarm woke me with a start and I had no clue as to where we were. The memories came flooding and I jumped out of the bed and waking Atha, got dressed. The clouds had gathered while we were snoring and now looked ready to come down at any second. Gosh, we had no umbrella. Nevertheless we drove on and found we were hungry. Thankfully small packet of Lemon Puff came to the rescue which we bit into during the drive.
Once again we were back at the entrance to the archaeological site and bought the customary Rs. 50/- ticket. This time we turned to the left and drove on for about 100m before coming to the car park right in front of the Dalada Maluwa which houses many wonderful creations. It was just a matter of time for the rain so we hurriedly walked towards the Shiva Kovil No. 1 just outside the Dalada Maluwa.
Shiva Kovil No. 1
Located just as you turn to the left when you visit the outer citadel, this creates a big impression on the viewer. Built solidly with stone but looks like molded ore, you simply can’t believe how precisely they had cut those stones and made all those arts along the walls. Let’s see what it says about this wonderful creation.
“Contents:
The ancient name and the builder of this Hindu shrine are not known. But according to the style of architecture, this may have been built somewhere in the 13th century A.D. As it is located between the Citadel and the Sacred Quadrangle it may have been regarded as an important shrine at the time. The main object of worship is the Stone Lingam in the inner sanctum.”
Sacred Quadrangle aka Dalada Maluwa
I’m sure you must’ve been impressed by the stone architecture at the Shiva Kovil. Now is the big thing for the day. There are dozen or so unbelievably impeccable marvels within this Sacred Quadrangle which will blow you away. But before you enter the premises, let’s have a look at one of the wells located nearby. There are a number of them scattered around but our idiotic travelers, locals no doubt, have used them us dumping grounds. We saw a lot of garbage, empty plastic bottles and polythene wrappers in them.
The steps taken by the Horton Plains officials should be used at other places too in order to make sure the careless dumping of polythene and plastic is minimized.
Ok guys, now you’ve taken a look, shall we move on coz greater things await our arrival so we shouldn’t keep our ancestors’ spirits waiting?
Caution: Just remember, you have to remove your shoes and caps before entering all the sites inside the Dalada Maluwa. There are signs pasted all over. It’s not just the Dalada Maluwa but many other places too. Always, keep an eye out for these warnings and please adhere to them by all means.
Ok, are you ready to take your shoes and caps off? So let’s go…
Thuparama
Our first attraction inside the Dalada Maluwa was Thuparama. Now don’t get confused with the Thuparama Stupa at Anuradhapura. That is a Stupa whereas what we have in Polonnaruwa Sacred Quadrangle is a kind of an image house. This is very much similar to the other grandeur creations like Thivanka Image House and Lankathilaka Image House. Let’s see what it says about this first and then go onto the pictures. Gosh, it’s started raining all of a sudden and I’m grateful for the shelter inside the Thuparama. I can see many people running towards us searching for shelter and it’s gonna be a helluva job taking pictures. To make matters worse, the light has faded a lot and the dim yellowish light inside is not much of a help.
“Contents:
Although traditionally known as Thuparama, its ancient name or builder is not known. This is the only monument among those in Polonnaruwa where the roof is well preserved. Structures of this type where the side walls and the roof are made of bricks without using wood are known as Gedige. The ornamentation of the exterior walls shows the influence of South Indian architecture, Vimana-Panjara-Kudu design. There are indications that there had been a giant Buddha image inside but only the large seat now remains.”
Nissanka Latha Mandapaya
I had a helluva time taking pictures of Thuparama amid the sea of people but I managed to do it somehow. The time is flying but now the rains have stopped and sun is shining once again; let’s go see what else is there. How many of you remember the beautifully carved stone pillars in the shape of a blossoming lotus bud? Well that’s why the Nissanka Latha Mandapay is so special and rated as one of the best creation by our ancestors. It is located near the Western Entrance of the Dalada Maluwa, the area that contains the oldest and most sacred monuments in the city. A nearby stone inscription identifies this as the building used by King Nissanka Malla to listen to Pirith (chanting of Buddhist scriptures).
The structure is an elevated stone platform with a number of stone columns and surrounded by a low stone wall. These stone columns are the unique feature about the Nissanka Latha Manadapaya, since they are carved in a manner that is found nowhere else in the country. The eight granite columns are arranged in two rows, with four in each row. Presumably used to support a roof, each of them is approximately 8 feet 4 inches (2.54 m) in height. In each of these columns, the crown is carved in the shape of a blossoming lotus bud. The rest of the column is elaborately carved to resemble the stem of the flower. Unlike stone columns commonly seen in the architecture of this period, these are not straight, but are curved in three places. According to archaeologist Senarath Paranavithana, the stone columns at the Nissanka Latha Mandapaya are the best examples of this feature of ancient Sri Lankan architecture.
Thankfully it’s now fully covered and you can’t walk inside. It’ll help protect this uniquely shaped structure for many years to come. Well, let’s see what it says on the signage:
“Contents:
According to an inscription in situ, this pillared structure could be identified as the Nissankalatha Mandapa. The unusual pillar type stimulates a lotus stalk with flower as the capital. Another inscription confirms that it is here that King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) listened to Pirith, recital of Buddhist scriptures. In the center is a small stone cut stupa, having truncated top perhaps to receive the relic casket during Pirith chanting. This was probably covered with a roof. Pillars of similar design are also found in a building near Sathmahal Prasada.”
Bodhisattva Statue
Our next attraction was the Bodhisattva Statue placed right in front of the Nissanka Latha Mandapaya between Atadage and Watadage. There was no signage with details but the statue looks very much similar to the Dambegoda Statue. Here are some pictures for you to see. However, there’s also a belief that this could be a statue of King Nissanka Malla.
Western Gate House of the Dalada Maluwa
There are two key gate houses at Dalada Maluwa. One is at the western end behind Nissanka Latha Mandapa and the other is directly opposite (well you don’t have to be a genius to figure that out, do you?) through Atadage, Hatadage and Watadage. There are ruins of buildings closer to the gate house on both ends probably guard houses or even ritual chambers.
Velikkara Inscription
The sandy floor was soaked in water making it tough to walk on. Taking off shoes and walking was somewhat easier. The next in line was a Tamil Inscription named Velikkara Inscription. This is a fairly big one almost 6ft in height and about 3ft in width. Let’s see what it says. I’m sure it’s gonna take a long time for me to type it here but for the sake of our future generations I’ll make that sacrifice. All the contents given on the signage I’ve put in the report coz it’d be difficult for you to read them due to the compress of the size. Here we go:
“Velikkara Inscription.
Reign: After the death of Vijayabahu I
Period: 12th Century A.D.
Script: Grantha Tamil and Sinhala
Language: Tamil mixed with Sankrit
Introduction:
The Velikkaras rebelled agains King Vijayabahu (1155-1110 AD) in his 30th year refusing to fight against the Colas and they were punished. It seems that Velikkaras provided protection to the Temple of Tooth even during the early period of Vijayabahu due to the mention of construction of some buildings by them around the Temple of Tooth. Perhaps after the rebellion they were removed being the guards of the Temple of Tooth. After the death of Vijayabahu there were several internal struggles and it is very likely that Mugalan Thera decided to engage Velikkara forces again, for the protection of the Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic of the Buddha, during that turbulent period. The purpose of this inscription is to give an assurance by the Velikkara Soldiers that they would protect the sacred relics and the properties no matter what happened.
Contents:
The Temple of Tooth Relic built by the Commander Nagaragiri Deva on the instructions of King Vijayabahu and the surrounding shrines founded by the Velaikkaras shall be protected by the Velaikkara forces unto the dissolution of the world.
Obeisance to the Buddha in the prosperous island of Lanka King Sirisangabo Vijayabahu scion of the lineage of Iksavaku of the Solar Race gaining victory over many an army entered Anuradhapura. At the request of the Buddhist monks he put on the crown in order to protect the Buddhist religion. The king invited monks from Aramana (Myanmar) and purified the three Nikayas. The king who brought Lanka under a single canopy made donations to the three Nikayas three times equivalent to his own weight (coins) reigned 55 years and lived 73 years.
The Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic which was at the Uttaramula of Abhayagiri Vihara was brought to Pulanari or Vijayarajapura and permanently kept at the Temple of Tooth Relic. The first anointment ceremony (of Vijayabahu) was held there (according to the Culavamsa in the 18th year at Polonnaruwa) which also housed the colossal Buddha Statue, in which is held annually the ceremony of unloosening of sacred eyes and applying collyrium to them.
Rajaguru Mugalan Thera of Uttaramula, who is virtuous and learned, associating himself with the dignitaries came to the spot, called us and said ‘The Tooth Relic Temple should be under your custody’.
Thereupon we convened a meeting along with our elders and named the shrine ‘The great Temple of Tooth Relic belonging to three divisions of Velaikkaras’ and decided that it will remain as our charitable institution under our own custody. For the protection of the shrine one servitor from each of the (three divisions) was appointed and one veli of land was allocated for the maintenance of each person. We shall protect the villages, the retainers and the property belonging to the shrine, as well as those who enter for refuge; even it is detrimental to us. We shall endeavor as long as our lineage exists and even if we suffer deeper than we have suffered already.
To attest this we have delivered over (to Mugalan Thera), having had it engraved on copper plate and also engraved on stone, so that it may last as long as the sun and the moon endure.
Accordingly anyone who infringes (what is stated above) or consent to infringes or tell others to infringe becomes our enemy, who has committed an offence against Matantra, committed five great sins, a great sinner who had appropriated what was offered to gods, committed an offence against the (Triple) gem, who will enter the hell.”
Oh my gosh, my fingers are dancing now having typed without stopping all that in one go. Just wait coz I’ve got to give a massage to the poor fingers before I go on.
Pooh, that was tough but I’m happy coz that lasted so long after engraving on stone and hopefully this article will last longer until the internet is there unless something like a mega tsunami or an earthquake occurs. Let’s go see the pictures.
Atadage
One of the three Dages inside the Dalada Maluwa is Atadage. In addition to this, there is Hatadage and Watadage in the close vicinity. You know my fingers hurting so let’s go straight and see what it says on the signage.
But hang on, did you ever think why this is called Atadage? I’m sure you did but might not have found a reasonable answer. Here lemme offer you with two plausible explanations.
Legend:
“Ata” in Atadage means eight. In this case this building would have been called by this name probably because of it housed eight relics including the main Tooth and Bowl Relics or because it was completed in eight days. It is possible that this was built in eight days as there are indications that this building has used parts of other buildings in Anuradhapura era. The moonstone is a good example. This has been brought from Anuradhapura to be placed here.
Well, nobody is sure as to what made it call Atadage but those two will suffice for the time being.
“Contents:
This is the oldest building in the Sacred Quadrangle. This may be identified as the Temple of Tooth Relic built by King Vijayabahu the Great (1155-1110 AD). This was a two storied building and in the upper floor were deposited the Sacred Tooth Relic and the Bowl Relic. The upper floor was probably made of timber and the roof had wooden beams and was covered with clay tiles. Near the building is an inscription in Tamil Grantha script which says that the protection of the Sacred Tooth Relic had been entrusted to the Velaikkara soldiers who were the king’s private guards.”
Hatadage
What do you think about the Atadage folks? Pretty impressive ain’t it? Ok, you’ve seen nothing much yet coz I’ve got plenty more to show you. Let’s move on to Hatadage now. Remember, there’s Watadage yet to come. Oh come on, wake up now coz I can see you’re beginning to fall asleep. There’s time to sleep children, now stay awake.
Let’s see how the Hatadage name came about. The theory is somewhat similar to the Atadage but with an extraordinary feat if it is true.
Legend:
The Hatadage was built by King Nissanka Malla (1187–1196), as a shrine to house the Relic of the tooth of the Buddha. Several historical sources including the Rajavaliya, Poojavaliya and the Galpotha Inscription itself mention that it was built in sixty hours. Since the Sinhalese word Hata means sixty and Dage means Relic Shrine, it is possible that the structure was named Hatadage to commemorate this feat. Another theory is that it is so named because it held sixty relics. The tooth relic was presumably kept in the upper store.
The difference is they had built it apparently not in 60 days but 60 hours. Looking at their achievements, anything was possible then. Don’t you think these are great examples to pre-made and assembled structures? Nowadays, engineering boasts about making similar buildings but we had that technology more than 900 years ago, probably more. This is why our typical villagers keep saying “Api Owa Heduwa Suddha Weddha Kale” (in English, it should say something like this “we built them when the foreigners were premature than even the indigenous ones).
Now let’s look at the sign:
“Contents:
This is the Temple of the Tooth built by King Nissankamalla (1187-1196 AD). It is said that it is called Hatadage because it was built within sixty (hata) hours. It has been a two storied building and the upper floor may have contained the Tooth Relic. Among the stone slabs on the walls are three inscriptions of King Nissankamalla of which one has the words “Nissanka Hatadage”. The other inscriptions contain the king’s altruistic activities and advice given to the community of Buddhist monks. The roof may have had wooden beams and covered with clay.”
Key Things in the Hatadage
Porch
Vestibule
Staircase
Sanctum
Standing Buddha Image
Stone Paved Terrace
Parapet Wall
Let’s look at the structure of this:
The shrine is surrounded by a stone wall, 120 feet (37 m) long and 90 feet (27 m) wide. On its southern side is a doorway decorated with stone carvings, leading to a stone paved terrace. The main entrance to the shrine, which is also decorated with stone carvings and a Sandakada Pahana (Moonstone), is directly in front of it. Another smaller doorway is placed on the eastern side of the shrine.
The shrine has had a wooden superstructure with a tiled roof. However, only the walls now remain. The walls of the shrine are made of brick, and the outer walls are covered with stone plates. The main entrance leads to a small chamber, 27 feet (8.2 m) in length and 21 feet (6.4 m) in width. The base of its walls is decorated with designs of lotus flowers and lions. This chamber contains six stone columns and a staircase that had led to the upper floor. The square shaped main chamber is located to the rear of this outer chamber. Each of its sides is 35 feet (11 m) in length and contains four windows. The chamber had contained sixteen stone columns, although only three now remain. At the center of this chamber are three standing Buddha statues carved from granite. These are also partially destroyed. The statue in the middle is 9 feet (2.7 m) in height, while the other two are 7.5 feet (2.3 m) each.
Oh dear, there’s another of those long inscriptions and I’ll put it below for your reference.
“Hatadage Inscriptions of Nissanakamalla.
Reign: Nissanka Malla 1187-1196 A.D.
Period: 12th Century A.D.
Script: Medieval Sinhala
Language: Medieval Sinhala
All the three inscriptions are by King Nissankamalla. Two have been found in the shrine and one in the porch.
No. 1
Contents:
The Dharma which gives happiness and which alone deserves to be honored in the whole world should always be preserved.
King Nissanka Malla was born in Sinhapura of Kalinga of the womb of Queen Parvati unto Sri Jayagopa. In regular order he was consecrated as the king of Sri Lanka. The King waived taxes for five years and did many meritorious acts. The king toured through the three kingdoms and promoted welfare of the state and the Sasana. Although the king proceeded to Dambadiva (India) and demanded war the Pandyans and the Colas didn’t fight but sent gold, gifts and maidens. Since there were no enemies in this world the king thought to win the enemies of the next world and did many meritorious acts. To venerate the Tooth Relic and Bowl Relic he offered his son Virabahu and his daughter Sarvanga Sundari and for the purpose of redeeming them caused to make a stupa in gold. He also built ‘Vatadageya’, ‘Nissanka Latha Pavilion’, and ‘Nissanka Tooth Relic House’ and dedicated to them many villages, lands and serfs.
May the future kings protect Dharma and secure welfare of both the worlds!
Let it be thus understood by future kings that these are the…
No. 2
Contents:
From the second year of accession King Nissanka Malla toured around Sri Lanka including places such as Samanola (Adam’s Peak). He freed the kingdom from lawlessness thoroughly; that a woman might even carry a casket filled with the nine kinds of gems and not be asked, ‘what is that?’.
After living in a palace built by another king for seven years and seven months he thought it does not fit for his (status). He erected within 45 days a palace of seven stories. He built a magnificent pavilion from which he watched elephant fights. The king built ramparts and gates, three stone pavilions and Kalinga Park.
In the three kingdoms he erected palaces at several places and built stone thrones named ‘Virasimhasana’. He suppressed various administrative injustices. In the cause of thus inspecting the three kingdoms in various ways he fixed a gavu (mileposts) calling it Nissanka-gavu (several of these have been found).
The king made annual donations (in coins) to the poor equivalent to weights of himself, Queen Subhadra, sub-queen Kalyani, sub-king (Virabahu), minister Vikramabahu, Queen Candra, and Their Highnesses Parvati and Sarvanga Sundari.
No. 3
Although the venerable ones, teachers and preceptors practice the established doctrine and discipline, the kings are responsible for the protection of the Sasana of the country for the continuation of the religion for 5000 years. Accordingly for the safety of the Sasana the king thus advises;
- The venerable ones who are teachers and preceptors should not, without inquiry, robe foolish, sinus false and crafty persons.
- They should not do improper things contrary to the teachings of the Buddha.
(The inscription is damaged and the rest cannot be read.)”
Well, I’m not gonna say how hurting my fingers are coz you can guess as much. Let’s go and see the pictures folks.
Watadage
This too is another impressive marvel and one of the best preserved thanks to the Archeological Department.
The Polonnaruwa Vatadage, which occupies most of the south western area of the Dalada Maluwa, is a prominent structure among them. It is the best preserved example of a Watadage in the country, and is somewhat similar in design to those belonging to the Anuradhapura Period, especially Thuparamaya and Lankaramaya.
The building has been built around a small stupa with a base diameter of 27 feet 8 inches (8.43 m). The Vatadage has two levels; the lower platform and the raised upper platform that contains the stupa. The upper platform is 80 feet (24 m) in diameter, and the lower one 120 feet (37 m). The lower platform is 4 feet 3 inches (1.30 m) from ground level, and the upper platform is 5 feet 3 inches (1.60 m) from the lower.
The circular lower platform is entered through a single entrance on the northern side. Four elaborately constructed doorways lead from it to the upper platform, which is surrounded by a brick wall on its edge. These entrances are oriented to the four cardinal directions. The center of this platform is occupied by the stupa, which has four Buddha statues seated around it, each facing one of the entrances. Each of these statues is 5 feet (1.5 m) high, and is seated on stone seats with a height of 2 feet 10 inches (0.86 m) each. Three concentric rows of stone columns had existed on the upper platform. Two of these rows, of which nothing remains, were within the brick wall, while the third row is just outside it. The inner row had consisted of 16 columns, the middle row of 20, and the outer row of 32. The existing stone columns of the outer ring are about 8 feet (2.4 m) in height.
As usual, I’m gonna tell you what it says on the signage. I’m grateful that there’s very little of text to be extracted. No mile long inscription here.
“Contents:
This is one of the architectural marvels of Polonnaruwa. This may have been originally used as the Temple of the Tooth as there is mention of a round relic built by King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1187 AD). But according to the Galpota (Stone Book) Inscription, King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) has built a Watadage within the quadrangle naming it Ratnagiri Watadage which suggests that at least some renovation or reconstruction work has been done here during King Nissanka Malla’s reign. Just as other Watadages in the island, this too appears as a round building enclosing a stupa at its center. It has taken the present form probably as a result of the renovations or reconstruction works done in the region of King Nissanka Malla or during the Dambadeniya Period (13th Century AD). The roof supported on stone pillars probably had wooden members and covered with tiles. The moonstone and the two guard stones to the north and east respectively maybe cited as the best examples of their kinds in Polonnaruwa.”
Now let’s go and see the pictures of this beautiful structure. The sky had turned royal blue once again and the sun was shining in full force. We’ve couple of more to cover before we call it a day. So let’s hurry it up.
Galpotha (Stone Inscription)
That was wonderful, don’t you agree? We’ve got a couple of things more to cover before we finish exploring the Dalada Maluwa. Next in line is a long and wide stone inscription called Galpotha or Stone Book when directly translated. As usual, this too has been translated and given on the premises for the travelers’ benefits even though only a handful of them take trouble to read it.
You’re gonna have to read it before checking the pictures but of course you can skip it altogether but I wouldn’t recommend it coz it won’t be a fruitful experience should you ignore it. Ok, I’ve had a break and my fingers have had their rest. So let’s go find out what this gigantic inscription reveals. I can promise you one thing, that it’s gonna be really interesting and King Nissanka Malla’s name should be there.
“Galpota Slab Inscrtiption.
Reign: Nissanka Malla 1187-1196 A.D.
Period: 12th Century A.D.
Script: Medieval Sinhala
Language: Medieval Sinhala mixed with Sanskrit
Introduction:
The postscript of the inscription states that the granite block in which it is inscribed was brought from Sagiria (Mihintale) which is about 100km away. The weight of the rock is approximately 15 tons and the dimenstions are 26ft 8in X 4ft 7in X 1ft 9in (av.). This is the longest inscription of King Nissanka Malla. The king has outlined some of his policies and the duties and responsibilities of the subjects in this inscription.
Contents:
Hail! This Dharma, which gives happiness and which alone deserves to be honored by the whole world, should always be preserved.
Vijaya, the first king of Sri Lanka had come from Kalinga and King Nissanka Malla was also born in Sinhapura of Kalinga, of the womb of Queen Parvati unto Sri Jayagopa belongs to Okkaka Dynasty and arrived in Sri Lanka 1700 years after Vijaya came to Sri Lanka, on the invitation of the king (Parakramabahu I). (He) then became proficient in Buddhism and in the science of arms and held the positions of regional king and viceroy, before being consecrated as the king of Sri Lanka named Sirisangabo Kalinga Parakramabahu Viraraja Nissankamalla.
After he became king he revoked cetain enactments by previous kings which were unfavourable to the people. The King waived taxes for five years and later imposed reduced taxes than previously, as follows;
Closer section of the paddy fields to the tank – 1 amuna and 3 pala and 6 madaran
Middle section of the fields from the tank – 1 amuna and 1 pala and 3 madaran
Chena cultivation tax and tax on re-cultivating of abandon paddy lands had been discontinued.
The king gave money and wealth to the poor and alleviated poverty. Abandoned reservoirs and channels in the three kingdoms were repaired and thus brought prosperity and security to inhabitants. He established courts of justice and gave wealth to thieves to stop them from thieving. The king got rid of the thorns of the Sasana, held annual ordination, ceremonies and the virtuous monks were given requisites.
The king brought many princesses of Solar and Lunar dynasties from Kalinga for his son, the Viceroy Virabahu for the continuation of the dynasty. He donated annually wealth equivalent to the weights of himself, the Chief Queen Kalinga Subadra, the second Queen Kalyana of Gangavamsa and his son [Virabahu], his daughter Sarvanga Sundari. The people were in readiness to give their lives for the king as proof of their love and loyalty. Performing day after day the ten meritorious acts, he took his residence in the Kalinga city of Polonnaruwa.
Thinking of the injustices done to Sri Lankans in the past he declared war against Colas and Pandyans. When the Pandyans came to know that Commander Lag Vijayasingu Tavuruna himself would command, the Pandyan king and his mother pleaded only some land for their maintenance and sent gifts and royal maidens. Similarly Colas also sent gifts which quenched the flame of his anger. He formed friendly alliances with Karnataka, Nellur, Gauda, Kalinga, Tilinga and Gujarata. From those who did not wish such friendship he struck terror and extracted maidens and tributes from such kingdoms. In Ramesvaram, at a ceremony he bestowed boundless wealth on inhabitants and built a Devala (An inscription of the king has been found in Ramesvaram).
Then reflecting that he had no enemies in this world, he would conquer the enemies of the next world, built many alms-houses and did many meritorious acts. To the Tooth and the Bowl relics he offered his son and daughter and redeemed them by offering a [model of a] dagaba in solid gold together with other valuables. The king had built Temple of Tooth, Watadaga Geya, Nissanka Latha Pavillion, Ruwanweli Stupa (Rankoth Vihara) and four subsidiary stupas at the Maha Vihara [Dimbulagala].
- The kings are human divinities and must therefore be regarded as gods.
- King inflicts punishment [to offenders] commensurate with the offence just like a physician applies remedy for a bodily ailment.
- They restrain [their subjects] from evil and thus save them from falling into hell.
- For those who do not observe the wishes of the king, human world would be like hell.
- For those who observe the wishes of the king, human world would be like heaven.
- The trouble which one undergoes on behalf of kings is like sowing of see of happiness.
- The people should keep off from all evils.
- One who protects his wealth should not neglect his family.
- Though one has fallen from office, one should be loyal to the king like a fruit fallen from the stalk.
- Talking about the secrets of the kings is like invoking the death by the repetition of charms.
- He who gives his life for the king will live long in the fram of glory.
- Real feeling is the feeling of gratefulness.
- The best occupation is cultivation of land.
- The highest treasure is the Dharma.
- Since all these are received through the kings they should be cherished.
- Kings do not like those who are puffed up with pride.
- When one has received titles, offices and wealth from the king he should not become proud.
- According to tradition only the sons of the kings should be elected as kings.
- If there are no princes to maintain the kingdom the queens should be elected and in the absence of them as well, the people should place a slipper worn by a great king and protect the kingdom.
The Kalingas are the rightful heirs to the throne of Sri Lanka and therefore non-Buddhist kings such as Colas and Pandyans shall not be consecrated as kings of Sri Lanka. If there are any of them [Kalingas] to be found, is the duty of the people to place them in the position of supremacy to protect the Sasana.
It is indeed the Dharma that protects this whole world. So reflecting, cherish love for the acquisition of happiness in both the worlds. Thus are future kings requested by King Kalinga Nissanka Malla who loves virtue.”
Pretty impressive, isn’t it? I felt so proud of our ancestors at the way they governed this country. That is something unfortunately, our present leaders haven’t learned. All the MPs and the rest of the government officials and politicians should be thought and given a code of conduct based on these. But again, it’ll have to be implemented by the politicians themselves. So it won’t become realistic.
You know that there’s another short description given at the sight, don’t you? Let’s take a look at that as well.
“Contents:
This giant inscription which assumes the shape of a palm-leaf manuscript in stone has been a work of King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 AD) and it is the largest stone inscription so far discovered. The inscription itself says that this large stone block was transported from Mihintale, some hundred kilometers away from Polonnaruwa. It describes the genealogy, heroic and altruistic deeds of King Nissanka Malla. The letters of the inscription were gilded with molten iron. There may have been a roof over the inscription for its protection. The figure of the woman on the side face of the stone on whom two elephants are sprinkling water has been identified as Goddess Gajalakshmi (Goddess of Prosperity).”
See, there’s no point going and seeing these things if you haven’t a clue as to what they are, who’s built them, what was the purpose for it, how old they are, etc. Now is the time for long awaited pictures.
Sathmahal Prasada
Now, we’re gonna see another tall building built during the Polonnaruwa era. Unlike the 7-story building of King Parakramabahu Palace, this is so much smaller and has a pyramidal shape as it narrows down going up. Let’s see what the archeology department has to say about it.
“Contents:
Although known as Satmahal Prasada, its ancient name or other facts of this edifice are not known. Despite the fact that there’s reference in the Mahavamsa that King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD) built a Satmahal Prasada in Polonnaruwa there’s no positive evidence that it is the building. Built in the stepped pyramidal form this seven-storied structure may be a stupa of a rare kind. It bears a close similarity to the stupa at Wat Kukut in Lamphun, Thailand. The architectural features common in South-East Asian countries are also visible in this building.”
Pohoya Geya (Chapter House)
Our next attraction was the Chapter House located between Galpotha and Sathmahal Prasada. In Sinhala, it’s the Pohoya Geya but there was no further information displayed on site. Let’s see the pictures in action. One special feature is a stone pillar at the center very much similar to the curved lotus stalk of Nissanka Latha Mandapa. Apart from that, there are a handful of pillars along the border of the structure. At the entrance, a prominent moonstone is present.
Eastern Gate House of Dalada Maluwa
Well, it’s time to leave the Dalada Maluwa but not before examining the East Entrance. This is in a better shaped compared to the West Entrance and is right in front of the car park I told you earlier. Without much more ha ho, let’s see the pictures.
Ok, that’s about the Dalada Maluwa where most of the Sacred Shrines are located. If you think, we’ve done for the day, you’re badly mistaken. Stay with us for a bit longer folks, coz I’ve got three other things that would interest you.
Shiva Devalaya No. 2
We drove on towards the South Entrance to the outer Citadel. You would have to go through it to see the majestic Gal Viharaya and many more prominent shrines and relics. Just before the Southern Entrance, there’s a right turn that will take you to Shiva Devalaya No. 2. We took that and it’s a drive about 400m. Pabalu Vehera is a located somewhere in the middle to the right but we drove straight to the Shiva Devalaya hoping to cover Pabalu Vehera on the way back. So let’s see what it says about the Shiva Devalaya No. 2. Remember we visited the No. 1 just before Dalada Maluwa. Should you like to refresh your memory, just scroll up.
“Contents:
This is the oldest Hindu shrine in Polonnaruwa. Known as Shiva Devala No. 2, it had been built by King Rajaraja I (985-1014 AD). According to Tamil inscription found in situ this has been dedicated to the consort of the above king, Vanavanmadevi. In the center of the shrine is the stone-cut Sivalinga as the principal object of worship. Many images of Hindu gods were discovered from this site. The Namdi figure, the vehicle of God Siva is presently located in front of the shrine. Hindu religious activities continue here even at the present time.”
Unnamed Ruins
The Eastern Entrance to the outer Citadel lies a little away from the Shiva Kovil No. 2 but we didn’t attempt to go see it as the time was going really fast and already the dusk was falling. We wanted to see Pabalu Vehera before the darkness completely enveloped us. It didn’t look like many have ventured into see the Entrance so it’ll have to wait till another time. However, on our way back to the Pabalu Vehera, we noticed a ladder going up towards a tree with a hut on the top of it. I was very interested in that so we stopped to look around.
Beyond the tree there was a path that led to a hut about 50m away. Naturally, I wanted to investigate and walked towards it. There was nobody in sight so looking closer this was a place under excavation by the archeology department. It was in the middle of being unearthed and hopefully there’ll be something new added to the already overflowing collection. By the way, that hut could be used to stay at night or to keep watch as jumbos might be roaming around. Just imagine how many more sites are there buried under the earth waiting to be excavated. That’s why we have to keep funding the Archeology Department all the time coz they’re digging for our heritage. Here are some pictures.
If they find something new, well you’ve seen the first hand before anyone else. So keep smiling…
Pabalu Vehera
The next thing, the last in our list, was Pabalu Vehera. A beautiful name for a Dagaba and we were highly excited. So we drove on and found to our greatest relief that nobody in sight. It was the same at Shiva Kovil No. 2 but after we arrived, there were two other vehicles. Apparently these shrines are not visited by many and often enough. Having tried to avoid people throughout the day, this was a godsend opportunity to take in the evening surrounding with this imposing Pagoda.
This is what I really love about archeology. You can go back in time visualizing what it was like then when you’re alone in a site like this. Most of the day, we were deprived of that opportunity but here was our perfect opportunity.
Dear me, maybe I spoke out of hand or too soon. Here comes a vehicle and I can see a couple of bicycles too coming this way, probably foreigners. Well, let’s go see this beautiful structure before it’s too late and the darkness envelopes us. Oh, we gotta see what the story behind it before that.
“Contents:
Located to the south of the main street which provides access to the ancient city of Polonnaruwa from the eastern gate. It is popularly believed that this may be the stupa supposed to have been built by Queen Rupavati, a consort of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153-1186 AD). But there is no definitive evidence about its ancient name or the builder. The popular name Pabalu Vehera may derive from the recovery of ‘beads’ (Pabalu) in the vicinity. Around the stupa there are several image houses. A special feature of this stupa is a narrow staircase in three flights at the south providing access to top of the basal tiers.”
Sunset from Parakrama Samudra
All right, we’ve covered, I’d imagine, about 30-40% of the documented shrines and relics inside the whole complex. Most likely a lot less than that percentage I just mentioned. I know you’re wondering “What? We’ve only seen that much after all that?”. I don’t blame you for thinking like that coz that’s how any ordinary person would feel. Don’t you worry coz we’re gonna see some more tomorrow, now don’t get alarmed, and it’ll be another story. Right now it’s almost dark and our camera batteries have long gone dead but Atha suggested we go see the Gal Vihara Statues in the dusk.
We kinda wanted to do a reconnaissance around the other attractions so that we could plan the following day properly. So we drove on and parked at Gal Vihara. Then took a walk with nothing but our phones. It felt so great not to have the cameras with us as we were only taking in the scenery with our eyes. It’s something we must try every now and then. We walked leisurely towards the Gal Vihara to find many people were still at the premises. Do you know the Gal Vihara used to be called as Kele Viharaya (Forest or Jungle Temple)? That’s just what we heard one guide was telling his crew. It had been nothing but thick jungle all around the complex before it was unveiled thus giving it the name. But now it’s popularly known as all over the world, Gal Viharaya.
I’m going to be naughty and not show you any pictures I took with my phone. It felt heavenly and I went back in time in my mind.
—There were flames stuck along the path to the statues. A crescent moon was high up in the sky with a million stars to keep him company. The distance sound of drums at the Dalada Maluwa was soothing to the ears. Wind blew from Parakrama Samudra bringing a cool air that covered our bodies. There was a group of monks walking in a line looking downwards in meditation. The upper bare-bodied guards with bandanas carrying swords and spears were stood at every entrance looking menacingly. Clinking and clattering of horses moving about was music to my ears. The Buddha statues looked serene in the flame light. Moonlight reflected on the granite surface falling that light on the leaves. For a moment everything came to a standstill and I felt a calmness wash over me.—
“Let’s go, it’s getting late” Atha woke me from my reverie. I dragged myself towards the car and we drove away. Passing the Parakrama Samudra where you can see it clearly from the main road I put my foot down hoping to step on the brakes but realized it was Atha who was driving. Shouting for him to pull over I unbuckled myself getting the camera out of the backseat where it was being charged. We stopped and both ran like madmen to the viewing point. What we saw is something every person’s dream but only a handful of us were lucky enough to see it.
The sun was at this last stage of setting in the distance across the Parakrama Samudraya. The water rippled in the wind and the vivid colors reflected on the surface beautifully. I was lost for a minute. There was no one else but me. Now you’re gonna see what I saw but let me warn you, the pictures are not even half as good as what I saw for real.
Oh dear, this has really been a marathon of archeology. We’re all but exhausted and all we need is a delicious meal and a cozy bed.
I hope you folks enjoyed it as much as I did bringing it to you. I don’t have to reiterate the fact that I went to great trouble to bring you a comprehensive narration of what we saw within 7+ hours.
Thanks for being patient and reading through. Now go imagine yourselves in the former glory of Polonnaruwa and we’re gonna get some rest.
I’ll bring you the Chapter 2 in the next report with more pictures and details. Until then, take care and keep travelling.
Sri…
